Thursday, October 31, 2024

Nuuk Greenland October 1 2024



Rainbow in Nuuk

I felt quite smug today. I found my way right to the town centre and then down to the museum. I made a brief stop in the museum to see the Greenlandic mummies. They were around a corner very carefully lit. The rest of the small room was dim. I stood there for a few minutes letting my eyes move over every detail of their bodies and clothing, thinking how all humans past and present are related. I wanted to make some kind of a gesture of respect but I couldn’t think of anything so I said a mental thank you for their lives and their exquisitely preserved remains. Before I turned away I hoped that they had lived well and were valued. In the gift shop I bought a book on the mummies. On a previous trip we actually saw the place they were found. Then, still a little pensive, I headed to the qiviut store.
Mummy's hands by Liz Carlson



I looked around for quite a while before buying a toque, and neck tube for Richard and an ear band for myself. Because one Danish kroner is worth about 20 cents, it’s easy to lose track of how much things actually cost. Qiviut ain’t cheap! Purchases in hand, I walked back to the ship. I’ll probably go into town again this afternoon with my sketchbook. I also didn’t feel much like taking photos today. I got a few including one of a rainbow over the harbour.

It is weird to be here when it is dark in the morning. I was in town when the sun came up this morning. It’s now bright and sunny with a few clouds. I went the wrong way when I left the ship. Instead of going through the border control which I didn’t see, I went the other way and simply walked around the fence. One of the workers gave me a rather strange look but I just smiled and carried on. It’s amazing what you can get away with if you just look like you know what you’re doing. When I came back to the ship I went the right way.

There is a lot of construction going on here at the moment. The woman in the qiviut shop said she was surprised that I knew how to get around because of the construction. I’m sitting in the Compass Club on the ship as I write this and the lady in the next bay window is coughing like crazy so I moved back one. Now I have a tickle in my throat.
Construction

Looks like the shuttle buses are doing a good business. I enjoyed getting out and walking this morning. BTV and Janet are taking the bus tour which I’ve been on before and then going to the museum. I feel like I needed unstructured time today. Adventure Canada doesn’t want you to be bored and I know from experience that it’s up to me to carve out down time.

We always get a wake-up call in the morning beginning with, “Good morning, good morning, good morning.” After that the expedition leader gives the ship’s position, the temperature, and the wind status, he usually reads a quotation that has something to do with our kind of trip. This year rather than the  quotations we have Tony who makes up a song about yesterday’s activities. He often borrows the tune which he plays on his harmonica before singing the song. The people I’ve talked to seem to think it is fantastic. Barbara and I aren’t as convinced especially when MJ follows the song with some ‘poetry’ reported to be composed by AI. I believe the AI part unless MJ spends more time writing bad stuff than I think he does. To give Tony his due, it's not easy to come up with song lyrics each and every day based on the previous day's events.

Last night I met Kaili who was so nice on the phone when BTV and I were trying to get things arranged for this trip. She wanted to meet BTV so I made sure I introduced the two of them this morning. I really hope AC keeps her on. She was the best of the bunch on the phone.

I didn't expect to see flowers in October

Harbour in Nuuk

Sedna godess of the sea

kayaks

I like this view in Nuuk





Monday September 30, 2024

[From my journal]



It’s been a good day. To start off with, I wasn't as tired as I have been for the last few days. Mind you, I’m tired now that it is almost 10:00. I did feel fairly human when I got up this morning. We had a great zodiac cruise to the face of the glacier. We were in Randy’s zodiac. I was right beside him on the starboard side and was looking around not saying anything. I met his eye and he smiled at me and said, “It just makes you smile doesn’t it?” I agreed with him. We saw an iceberg, not sure if it was really big enough to be an iceberg or not, but it was the most gorgeous sapphire blue I’ve ever seen, very intense. On the way to the face of the glacier, Randy took us up to a number of waterfalls. I was surprised that some of the vegetation around the waterfalls and little streams was still green.
Randy Edmonds



Waterfall close up

We saw a bunch of bird’s nests along the wall beside the water. We asked Gary later what they were and he said he thought they would probably be kittiwakes. We also saw some glaucous gulls. Randy took us as close as he could to the face and then through the ice and back to the ship. It was overcast which made the sky, sea, glacier, and the rock rather monochromatic. I didn’t mind that. I took some photos on my phone and wasn’t going to bother with the camera until I remembered the card flying back and forth between Vancouver and Aukland. That made me get the camera out and I got some decent photos with it including one of the gulls on the ice which allowed Gary to identify them later.

After lunch there was a choice of activities, crafts, classical guitar, or a talk by Gary on how to use binoculars.  He told us to identify the eyepiece that wasn’t adjustable, and the one that was. The one that is has a dial and + and - on it. We were to focus on something in the distance that wouldn’t move i.e. not something on land because the ship was moving. Then look through whichever eye had the non-adjustable eyepiece and adjust the binoculars with the regular adjustment wheel in the middle. After that was nice and sharp look through the adjustable side and adjust that until it was nice and sharp. From there you only have to adjust using the middle knob. People in our group saw a minke whale. I thought I saw it but it turned out to be just a wave breaking over a submerged rock. We saw gulls as well. Gary explained that glaucous gulls look different depending on how old they are. Their beaks and their feathers change colour.

While we were on the cruise with Randy he pointed out some snow buntings. I wish I could have gotten a picture of them but I didn’t.

After the binocular session, there was a talk by some of the Inuit onboard about truth and reconciliation and then the briefing about Nuuk tomorrow. We each got a customs form to fill out. Apparently the folks in the main office are getting quite busy trying to arrange customs clearance a day later than we were supposed to arrive in Canada. I checked the amounts and if you’re out of Canada for 48 hours you can bring back $800 worth of stuff. I don’t think I’ll be spending that much on qiviut .

Tomorrow is Nuuk. There are bus tours which BTV and Janet are going to take. I’m just going to walk into town on my own and poke around with my camera and phone. In theory, the sim card should work in Nuuk but I’m not holding my breath on that one. There is free internet at the library but everybody and his dog will want to be on it. BTV and Janet are going to get lunch some place in town and my plan is to go into Nuuk in the morning and look around, come back onboard for lunch and then go back into town or, if I’ve done everything I want to, I’ll come back to the ship.

It certainly feels busy and I think I need some down time. Walking around at my own pace and doing whatever I want should fix some of that. I’m quite content to let MJ wake me up in the morning since I’m not catching either the 8:15 bus tour or the 8:45 bus tour. By special arrangement, the museum opens at 9:00 so I’ll attempt to get into town about 9:30 and hit the museum and then the quiviut shop. I may or may not find a place for a cup of tea.

Clothing: for the ice tour today I wore my light fleece pants with my rain pants over top. My rain pants seem to be leaking because I had a wet spot on my butt that took a while to dry. I’m pretty sure it’s just the middle seam but it might be time for a new pair of rain pants. I wore my hiking boots with just my regular socks underneath. My toes were a wee bit chilly but nothing too serious. I had my heavy gloves with me but only wore the ones with the fingertips that work on the touch screen. My hands were chilly but not frozen so that was fine. On the top I had my Ice Breaker short sleeved T, then my grey marino turtleneck, then my Grimsey sweater and finally my AC jacket. I took an ear band rather than a toque and the only time my head felt the cold air was when we were zipping back to the ship on the step. Again, proof positive of what a wonderful purchase that sweater was. I will be so sorry when it eventually wears out.
I love my Grimsey sweater



I think I’ve about covered the events of the day and now it’s time to ‘lay this log’ as the guy on the  Bushman and Blue YouTube channel always says when it’s time for him to go to sleep in his tent.

Till tomorrow.

Saturday, October 19, 2024

Music and me



I’m so excited today I can hardly restrain myself from jumping up and down. I love to learn things and last night, when I should have been in bed, something about music finally clicked. That was Mum’s word, “One of these days it will click,” she would assure me. Some of you will read this and say, “Ya, big deal. I’ve known that forever,” and some of you will read it and not know what I’m talking about. I understand because I’ve been in both those places.



I don’t remember a time when I didn’t sing. When I was little and we had huge family gatherings at my grandparents’ house Mum played the grand piano,  I sat on the bench beside her and we sang. As soon as I was old enough I joined the junior choir at church and when I was about 11 Dad bought me accordion lessons for Christmas. That’s when I learned to read music. Well, more correctly, I learned to read treble clef since the bass clef in accordion is a kind of shorthand which uses a single low note to indicate the bass note and a single high note to indicate the entire chord which is then delineated by M major chord, m minor chord, or 7 for 7th chord. I didn’t progress far enough to need more information than that so I don’t know what happens to accordion notation as the pieces get more complex.

But I’m getting side-tracked. I kept singing in the junior church choir and when I got into junior high I signed up for music vocal as one of my options. The talk around the community was that there was a hot shot music teacher named Marilyn Perkins who taught the choral program at Viscount Bennet, the school I attended for junior and senior high. Each year there was a band and choral concert at the Jubilee Auditorium and that was a very big deal. Being in Miss Perkins’ choir was THE thing to do. In grade 7 we didn’t get Miss Perkins but if we registered for music vocal again in grade 8 we got her.

I was awe struck from the first moment she walked into the room. There were two of my friends in the class with me and I remember “Perky” giving us some music and suggesting that the 3 of us take it to the organist at church and sing it as a trio during the service. We did that and having Perky for music in school made me increasingly dissatisfied with the music at the church. Miss Perkins was the choir director at a neighbouring United Church and, much to my father’s chagrin, I jumped ship and began attending that church so I could sing with Miss Perkins.

Along with choral music, I joined the folk club at school and learned to play the ukulele. I thought of it as just a  guitar with training wheels and figured I could more easily sell my parents on the instrument because it didn’t cost as much as a guitar. At some point I ‘graduated’ to guitar and with the help of the other kids and the teacher sponsor, Barry Luft, I learned to play chords and sing along. I loved the folk club. We had Hootenannies and met once a week before school to learn new songs. I started a song binder consisting of lyrics and chord names which I still have. I couldn’t read standard musical notation for the guitar but I didn’t need to because everyone played chords. There were a lot of nights with guitars around campfires that have stayed with me.

Sometime around grade 9 I saw that some of the other kids, the high flyers in the choral class were taking voice lessons so I thought that would be a good idea for me too. Most of those high flyers were also taking piano lessons which gave them an advantage in sight reading. I took voice lessons all the way through high school, quit when I went to university, and then found a teacher at the university when I went back to do my BEd. I continued with the church choir under Marilyn Perkins and, when I got a job in Banff after university, I drove back and forth from Banff to Calgary so I could attend rehearsals on Thursday nights and services on Sunday.


During those years Marilyn coached me in singing until she became ill with her second bout of cancer. She died 2003. When I retired in 2008 I had the idea that I would finally devote myself to singing. I’d learn to sight sing and hone my technique and skills so that I could sing in more choirs. I started taking piano lessons with the express purpose of improving my reading. I was never particularly attracted to the piano as an instrument and after 7 years, never having gone beyond grade 3. I decided that there were certain things in life I no longer had to do if I didn’t want to. At first piano was fun because it was new and the learning curve was steep but I realized that I simply wasn’t committed enough to put in the work it would require to accomplish one of my goals: to be able to sit down and play for my own enjoyment. Since I quit lessons I have only sat down to pick out a soprano line in some of the choral music we sing. Clearly giving it up was the right thing to do.

Another thing I did when I retired was to start voice lessons again, this time with Elaine Case, daughter of my first voice teacher. Elaine is a knowledgeable, kind, and patient teacher and my technique improved quite a bit in the years I studied with her. I lasted longer with her than with piano, about 10 years I think. Again, it became a question of my commitment. I was singing at her recitals and I was progressing but I hadn’t found a singing niche that really suited me. I have a “big” voice which is not always suitable for small ensemble or chamber choir work and I still wasn’t able to read and sing my line reliably without a lot of help from others who could read better than I or from the piano.

I might have tried for the opera chorus but I’d kind of been there and done that as a member of the stage management staff at the Banff Centre and with the Calgary Opera for its first few seasons. I’m not fond of memorizing songs in other languages, learning blocking or wearing costumes, and my lack of ability to read would probably have gotten me into trouble as well. It seemed like it would be a huge amount of work, a lot of which I didn't like.

While I was teaching I took up classical guitar. I very much like the sound of the instrument and I enjoyed playing for a number of years. By now you can probably see a pattern. I’m not sure how many years I played and I didn’t take any examinations but I think I was probably playing at about a grade 4 level. As with my other musical undertakings, I got to a place where I simply didn’t want to do the work it would have taken to improve beyond the level I was at. It’s useful at a certain point in life to admit to yourself that you just don’t want to put in the effort. Luckily by this point I’m not depending on the amount of effort I put in to hold down a job or get a degree. I can simply stop.

By the time I stopped taking classical guitar, I had 4 guitars, 2 classical, 1 folk, (the second guitar I ever bought) and an acoustic electric that I bought just because I liked it. I own two of those guitars now, the other two having found homes with people who will play and appreciate them more than I do.

In 2015 Richard and I took a trip to the Canadian Arctic with Adventure Canada. The host and musician on board was David Newland. He played guitar, sang, and occasionally played ukulele. I stayed up late singing with the handful of people who wanted to keep the music going long after most of the others on the ship had gone to bed. It took me back to the hootenanny days and I had a blast.

When I got home I decided that I would buy myself a ukulele for my birthday. I knew the chord shapes from guitar but it really messed with my brain that a G chord in the first position on the guitar was a C chord in the first position on the ukulele. One of the attractions of the uke was its size. I have some arthritis in my thumbs and that made playing barre chords on the guitar, which I had never gotten very good at, even more difficult. The uke was smaller with a narrower neck and the strings are not under so much tension so it was easier for me to play. I also discovered something that I have never been able to do on any other instrument before except the harmonica: I can play the melodies of songs by ear, and sing the words in my head. This is an important stress reliever and I can do it for hours without noticing how much time has passed. 
The disadvantage of studying something in reasonable depth is that you always have the teaching voice in your head. When I sing it is almost impossible for me not to think about whether I’m supporting the sound correctly, when and how I need to switch from one register to another, whether my vowels are placed well, and where I should take a breath. Those are all important considerations for a singer but it’s hard sometimes to get out of my own way. When I play one of my ukes by ear all of that falls away.

This year two official musicians were onboard the Adventure Canada trip to Greenland and Labrador. Tony Oxford plays and composes his own songs and he knows  a whole catalogue of songs by other artists.  Adam Ruzzo is trained in classical guitar and can switch from playing complex classical repertoire to playing folk, popular, and his own compositions at the drop of the hat. Shortly after the trip started Tony and Adam hosted a kitchen party. A kitchen party is a Newfoundland and Labrador tradition where “friends, family, and sometimes even strangers come together to share music, stories, food, and dance.” [https://newfoundlandbuzz.ca/]


I always travel with my ukulele now and I showed up to the first kitchen party with it in tow. I was sitting on the side when Tony approached me and asked if I would like to do a song. I said I would. The kitchen party began and after a while Tony called on me. I played my favourite “The Logdriver’s Waltz” with which Canadians of a certain age will be familiar because of the National Film Board short cartoon of the same name. I played the melody twice through and by the second time some of the audience were singing. I need more practice in front of people because while thinking how cool that was my fingers got all fumbly and I missed some notes. Nevertheless, people clapped at the end and I sat down.

I continued to play from the sidelines as much as I could and soon Tony invited me up to stand with the musicians. I played as many of the chords as I could and sang with great gusto. Adam encouraged me by telling me quietly what chords to play and Tony invited me to sing a verse of a song by myself. I felt as if I completely belonged.

At the second kitchen party I became part of the onstage gang and stayed to sing and play after the audience had left. It was a great workout for my head because I’m able to watch a guitar player’s left hand and read what the chord is so that I can play it. That’s when I’m playing guitar. What I was trying to do that night was to recognize the guitar chord and translate it to the ukulele chord. I missed a ton of chords and some I left out completely but it was fun and nobody paid any attention when I played a wrong chord. I think that’s part of the spirit of a kitchen party.

Unfortunately I missed the last kitchen party. I’m not as young as I once was. The cruise was drawing to a close and I knew that if I went, I would love it, stay up way too late, and be a total wreck in the morning. I stayed in my cabin and packed instead. When I saw Adam later at the hotel he gave me a hug and complimented me on my singing.

I don’t often play ukulele and/or sing in public by myself and Jake has been gently nudging me for years to work up a couple of party pieces. I’ve started a few times but haven’t gotten anything polished. Last night I was noodling away on my uke and I remembered two choral pieces I particularly liked. I looked up the words to one, listened a few times to YouTube versions, and then picked out the melody in C. If I could play the melody in C, I reasoned, I could sing the melody with chords in that key. I found most of the chords I needed with the help of various cheat sheets. A couple of chords didn’t sound right and I couldn't find ones that did, so I asked Richard. He dropped what he was doing and came to my rescue. He asked if the key of C was a bit low for me.

I spread out all the info I had on ukulele chords, and the Nashville number system which had never really made sense before. I decided to try playing the song in D. I know some of you can transpose with your eyes closed but for me this is a very big and complex step. The basic chords were easy enough but when I got the the others I figured them out by looking at what they were in C and then moving up a tone to give me the minor and the 7th chord I needed. I tried that key a few times and it worked. I very smugly announced to Richard that I had figured the song out in D. He listened and suggested it was still kind of low for me and that I could probably do it in F.

I wrote down the Nashville numbers beside the chords I had for the key of C, and then tried playing the song in F using the Dial a Ukulele Chord chart that Jake gave me. I kept getting the shape for two fo the chords so I drew the chord diagrams of them on the side of the page.  I palyed the song several times beginning to end using my diagrams and the Dial a Chord wheel. By then it was past 1:00 a.m. and I figured I’d better go to bed. So much for keeping up with the time advantage I got by moving from NL time to MST when I came home.  I have been going to bed before midnight and getting up around 8:00.

Today I got up (later than 8) and tried the chords again. I now know I’ll be able to learn the words and chords in order to sing and accompany myself. This morning I looked up the second song and I’m planning to learn that one as well. I think a good key for it will be D, but if not I'll pick a different key. 

If I learn to play in C, F, D, and G, I can probably handle most of the songs that show up at kitchen parties or their equivalent. I don’t care if I have the spotlight or not. I love being part of the  energy that happens when people sing and play together. I’m hoping to find other opportunities to be part of such gatherings and there’s a little voice in the back of my head saying, 'Maybe you can learn to play melody and chords in the same song. I have no idea whether I'll accomplish that or whether I'll poop out somewhere on the way. I do love new projects. You and I will have to wait and see.

Thanks for persevering to the end of this story, and by the way, I have maintained my motivation for a couple of things: writing and woodworking. I can be pleased with that.



Thursday, October 17, 2024

Haiku 2 Welcome on board 09/29/24



Qulliq burns welcome
Flame dances in champagne glass
Two worlds caught in warmth




 

Former Primeminister of Greenland 09/29/24



We were supposed to do a landing this afternoon but MJ made the call that we would stay in the shelter of the fjord. Fine by me. I’d decided to stay on board and loaf anyway. We are now underway, making for the mouth of the fjord. The weather looks like it will be better tomorrow and the hope is that we’ll be able to get to Nuuk. The former prime minister of Greenland, Aleqa Hammond,  is onboard, she will be giving a talk shortly and she is to leave the ship at Nuuk.
Aleqa left


Aleqa Hammond's talk was supposedly about climate change but it was more about how Greenland can move forward and the coalition of Arctic countries, Greenland, Canada, the US, Russia and one more I can’t think of. She said that she wanted Denmark to build 2 new airports in Greenland because it is becoming quite important in terms of Arctic security. Denmark wasn’t going to build the airports or lend Greenland the money so she  went to the US who weren't going to fund the airports either. She said she then invited the Chinese to tea. They were ready to build the airports and supply the labour. All of a sudden the US and Denmark became interested and Denmark came up with the loan at low rates of interest. She talked about how there were a lot of oil and gas resources under the polar cap, and there were also a bunch of rare metals and countries, like China, which has no access to the Arctic wanted to have a presence there. I gather there are a lot of ambassadors clamouring at the door to get a spot in Greenland,

 What we didn't hear anything about on the ship were the spicier parts of her financial dealings which, according to Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aleqa_Hammond included two cases of misuse of public funds. From my perspective she was an interesting storyteller and enjoyed sharing her knowledge of Greenland.]

It’s a little bit annoying not to be able to set my watch to the proper time. I really do look at my watch a lot. My phone got the message so I’l just have to look at that. The e-sim I bought for Greenland seems to be connected but I’m not getting anything even though I have 3 bars. I’ll see what happens in Nuuk.

On another technology front, I carefully wrote down the instructions for getting photos off my phone and onto the computer. It
My messy part of the cabin on OE
 all sounded very straightforward and I practiced a bit before I left home. When I tried it just came up with blank rectangles where there should have been photo thumbnails. I guess I’ll do what I’ve done in the past, hope that all the data on the phone remains and then sort it out when I get home. Sigh!

We are going for a zodiac cruise in the morning down one of the fjords and then we are sailing onto Nuuk the next day. There are going to be bus tours but I think I’ll skip those and walk into town and just putter around with my phone and my camera. The last time we were there I was madly searching for a camera charger for the Olympus mirrorless (no luck). I’ll hit the museum again and the stuff around the old town and then go in search of some qiviut for Richard. 

Arrival at the Ocean Endeavour 09/29/24


Well this is a whole new experience! I don’t have internet and I assumed I could work in Google docs offline. I do think this is possible. I just don’t know how to do it and, of course, because I have no internet I can’t Google it to find out. So, here I am using Pages for the first time. I have no idea how this works and my sense of it is that it is somewhat cumbersome and it probably does not play well with Google docs which is what I normally use to write my blogs.

So let’s back up a bit. I’m currently on the Ocean Endeavour anchored in Kangerlussuaq Greenland. There is a storm brewing outside the fjord. Even here in the shelter of the fjord MJ [Matthew James Swan, expedition leader] clocked the wind speed at 37 knots. That doesn’t mean much to me so MJ said to multiply that number by 1.76 which gives us 65 kmh. I can see why we don’t want to be out in that. We are going to hunker down today and try to make it to Nuuk tomorrow. There is an excursion scheduled for this afternoon if the seas permit and I said I would go on the photo walk. Now I’m thinking I might just stay on board. I’m still feeling quite tired and maybe I need some time for my soul to catch up.


Yesterday we were late leaving Toronto because the plane was late arriving. When we got here it was dark and the ship stood glowing offshore with its lights reflected in the water. I used my phone to capture some photos and a video as we took the zodiac to the ship. I’ll have to try downloading the info to my computer a bit later on. I think it turned out not too badly. The phones now are certainly impressive. Did I mention that it was raining when we were out in the zodiac? Good thing we had our trusty AC jackets although I don’t think these are quite the quality that they have been other years. I noticed that parts of the jacket were wetted out even though it wasn’t a hard rain, just a steady one and we were only out in it for maybe an hour max. Like I always say, two choices in the rain, wet from condensation on the inside or rain from the outside. My trusty Grimsey sweater served me very well on this occasion. I will be very sad when it wears out. It’s one of those items of clothing that is going to be hard, if not impossible, to replace unless I take up knitting myself and I don’t think that will happen anytime soon.

I was lucky on the zodiac ride because I was right in the bow and nobody else seemed crazy enough to even try to take photos. I wonder if I can put a link to the video in my blog. There must be a way to do it. One more thing to figure out. [I couldn't get it to work but there is a link in the last blog post I made to YouTube where I eventually decided to place it.]

This morning we had a safety briefing and a lifeboat drill only this time we didn’t actually have to put on the lifejackets. Maybe because it was rather brisk outside and normally when we’ve done this it has been the middle of the summer. I wasn’t exactly crying briny tears that we didn’t put on the lifejackets but it is curious how the protocols change from one voyage to the next or, more properly, from one year to the next.

There are a handful of people that I have met before and it’s almost like coming back to a summer camp where you know the kids from last year.

Riding in the zodiac at night was very cool.









Tuesday, October 15, 2024

Saturday September 28

Night rain soaks my head

Hot chocolate laced with booze

Through the dark, ship glows


https://youtu.be/g1MDR_7yNOo