Adventures in Flopsy part 3: Newfoundland

The walk in to Western Brook Pond

We arrived in Newfoundland on the ferry Blue Puttees and made our way to the Grand Codroy Campground in the Codroy Valley. We were met by a very friendly woman who ran the gift shop because the owners of the campground were putting on a show that included lots of singing, some cod kissing and a certificate for those who actually kissed the cod. We looked on from the outside and were rather glad we didn't have to make the decision to kiss or not to kiss the fish.

The rain let up after a while and we got a chance to check out the gift shop. There were a number of band sawn boxes there along with many knitted items and other local crafts. Apparently the box maker had a whole garage full of boxes when the operator of the gift shop approached him and asked if she could sell his work.

Western Brook Pond

On our way to Gros Morne the next morning we stopped in Cornerbrook and paid yet another visit to Canadian Tire. Unfortunately I didn't keep the receipts to see exactly how many Canadian Tire stores we visited and their locations. When we got to Gros Morne the ranger told us about an overnight hike that would take us to a spectacular peak overlooking Western Brook Pond. The hike featured gourmet food and all we needed to take along was a sleeping bag. We thought that sounded pretty good so we signed up. We hadn't really planned to overnight anywhere except in Flopsy but we had sleeping bags and day packs so we figured we could manage. In Green Point campground we organized our gear and ourselves for an early start the next morning.

The superhighway part of the hike

When we got up it was foggy. We hoped the fog would clear but told ourselves that we had hiked in the rain before and we could do it again. Besides this was a once in a lifetime opportunity. As we pulled out onto the highway it started to rain. We hoped that by the time we got to the gathering spot it would stop. It didn't.

We started to hike a bit later than we had intended and the clouds showed no signs of lifting. The hike began with a walk on a level pathway to the pond. From there we took a boat to the end of the pond and began the serious hiking; that's SERIOUS hiking. I was a bit apprehensive when I saw the rest of the group. I was the oldest and most of the rest looked like they were in their 30's or 40's. There was one guy who was a few years younger than I am. I told Clem, our guide, that my plan was to set a pace I could keep for the long haul and that I wouldn't be fast but I'd be steady.

Rainy day

Our boat

After a boat ride to the end of Western Brook Pond, we stopped briefly at the base camp where there were the two large tents, one for cooking and one for eating. Clem dropped off the cooler with the food and we set off up the trail which was pretty hard to find. By the time we had walked for about half an hour the trail became more of a route and an overgrown one at that. It was still raining and I couldn't see my feet because the foliage was up to my thighs. I had no idea what I was stepping on. I stepped on something slippery, perhaps a downed tree branch, lost my balance and ended up sitting in the mud having scraped my forearm on the way down. When I caught up with the rest of the group I announced that nobody else had to slip and sit in the mud because I had already done it. I guess once wasn't enough because I ended up falling 6 times in all. Did I mention that by this time it was pouring rain?

While I was going at a reasonable pace for me, the others were losing time waiting for me. When Richard and I and Michaela, the sweep guide, caught up to the main group they would start off again. I didn't need a rest so continuing on was fine. The terrain got steeper and the rocks we had to clamber up got higher as we climbed up the valley. I noticed I was doing a lot of grunting and muttering as I hauled myself up onto rock after rock.

The non-path

The plan was to have lunch at the top of the waterfall where the spectacular views were and then return the way we came. When we got to the bottom of the waterfall Clem mentioned that it got steeper from here up. That was enough for me. I was cold and wet and hoisting myself up onto large rock after large rock was tiring. I was also concerned about losing my balance on a steep slope. It was pretty clear to Clem that it wouldn't be a good idea for me to continue either so he asked me what I wanted to do. He said Michaela would stay with me or we could head down slowly. He offered to turn the whole group around. I told him I didn't like that idea as the rest were perfectly capable of going to the top. Richard offered to stay with me which I truly appreciated because I knew he wanted to get to the top. The others continued while Richard Michaela and I had something to eat and then headed back down the non-path.

Michaela had done the through hike which went over a ridge down into another valley and then back to the start of the hike. She had never retraced her steps the way we were about to do. If she wasn't sure of the route she asked us to wait while she scouted ahead. Richard is also very good at outdoor navigation and between the two of them we got down with a minimum of backtracking.

Now that's wet!

The rain continued all afternoon. I remember saying quite confidently that I didn't think I could possibly get any wetter. Another 20 minutes down the trail in what was a downpour I revised that statement. When we arrived at base camp Michaela, who was just as wet as we were, got the stove started and made us tea and toast while we wrung out and hung up our soaking outer layers. It was warm and dry in the tent and we were very grateful to be out of the incessant rain.The rest of the group came in about an hour after we did.

Clem: from guide to chef

When Clem had the group together he gave us the option of going back on the boat before dark or spending the night in the base camp as we had originally intended. Richard and I had been eyeing the brand new tents still in their original sacks and the tubes of seam sealant that were carefully placed with the tents. We didn't fancy putting up tents that had not been seam sealed in the rain and then trying to stay dry in them if it rained all night. No one else was really keen to spend the night in a tent either so Clem made us a lovely appetizer of scallops and toast, poured everyone who wanted them a few drinks and then cleaned up. We climbed back into our sodden gear and headed for the boat.

I love my modern hiking gear and have huge respect for what our ancestors faced when they came to make Canada their home. It was chilly on the water but I noticed that from the heat in the tent and the heat of my body my trusty nylon pants were almost dry. I was luxuriating in the feeling when a huge wave leapt over the side of the boat, broke over my head and soaked me. It's a good thing I don't dissolve in water.

At the end of our chilly ride back down the pond Clem docked the boat and we walked to the parking lot in the gathering dusk. Back at the vehicles, Clem gave out the halibut and veggies that were to have been the dinner's main course. We were delighted we had a fridge in Flopsy. The next night Richard cooked up the fish and peppers which we enjoyed in the warmth of the van.

Ready to head back

It was late by the time we got into Rocky Harbour and we couldn't find a space in the campground so we checked into the motel that was right next door. We dragged our tired and soggy selves in and treated ourselves to hot showers, an evening of reliable internet access and enough electrical outlets to charge all the devices at once. The next morning we did laundry before we left. On the hike Micheala told us about her favourite restaurant, Java Jacks. We went there and enjoyed a delicious lunch while looking out at the rain. In the afternoon we visited a lighthouse and talked with a woman who had lived all her life on the rock and was doing what she could to preserve the culture by working as an interpreter. Back at the van, I had a short nap and we went to Berry Hill campground.

The next day the sun came out and we headed for the other part of the park. We stopped for lunch at a lookout where we spread out our wet gear and tried to get the sun to dry out our boots. The packs dried pretty well in the sun and the breeze. The boots – not so much. We spent much of the afternoon in the Discovery Centre where we again had reliable wifi. The exhibits weren't bad either.

On our way to the Trout River campground on the west side of the island, we stopped to walk the Table Lands trail where the continents of Africa and North America collided and pushed up rock that was underneath the ocean. It was sunny; the trail was easy and the orangish rocks were certainly different from any others I had ever seen. Trout River was our last night in the park. We had reservations at Grand Codroy for our last in Newfoundland.

On our way back to Grand Codroy campground on Saturday July 19 we took time to hike Green Gardens. This trail led us right down to the sea and was marked by many sets of stairs. The sun was out and the day was warm. We took our time moving through the changing landscape. This was much more my kind of hike. After our hike we got back on the road and stopped in Cornerbrook for dinner in a restaurant.

Sunday July 20 was a perfect day for a ferry ride. The sun was out and the sea was flat. Richard and I had fun watching the tractors pull the trailers onto the ferry, park them and then disconnect and return for the next one. For the first time in over a month we pointed Flopsy's nose west. We were on our way home.

Here's a link to Clem's website.  The photo on the front page is the one the crew would have seen if it hadn't been rainy and cloudy.
http://clemstrekkingadventures.ca/Clems_Trekking_Adventures/Western_Brook_Pond.html