Friday, August 22, 2014

Adventures in Flopsy 2: Newfoundland or Bust



Actually we weren't at all sure that we'd make it as far as Newfoundland on this trip. There was a small matter of a hurricane ripping through the maritime provinces and we didn't want to become part of the problem by going somewhere where resources were already strained. As so many times on this trip, we changed our plans and then changed them again.

We intended to head for Newfoundland as fast as we could and then take our time on the way back. We did want to visit Quebec City though so we headed off with that in mind when we were finished the singing gig in Ottawa. We were a bit apprehensive at the border because of our lack of French and we stopped at the first visitor information centre we came upon. The lady there was very helpful. She assured us that we'd be fine with our very limited French. She gave us a map of the best way around Montreal and she recommended a campground across the river from the Old Quebec. We could, she said, take a ferry over so that we wouldn't have to worry about driving. What a brilliant suggestion!

We did have a bit of trouble understanding exactly what the parking attendant wanted us to do when we pulled up to the ferry dock but with some pointing and grunting on both sides we got parked in the proper spot. We walked up to the Citadel and signed on for a tour. I heard my dad talk about the French Canadian regiment the 'Van Doos' from his experiences in the second world war and it was interesting to see their home barracks. There was a parade and we got to see the soldiers in their bright red uniforms and their busbies. Rather ironic that the only regiment in Canada to wear the very British busbies is the French one. Unlike the Stampede or Banff and Lake Louise in the summer, the Citadel was comparatively quiet. They only allowed a certain number of people on each tour but there weren't huge line-ups waiting to get a tour either.


After the tour and a good look around the museum, we headed into the city for some lunch. Richard had been without a watch for a few days and we figured it must have slipped out of his pocket. He was quite unhappy about that because I have a watch that matches it. We went into a Swatch shop and he bought a rather elegant replacement. It's also a very practical souvenir of the trip. The watch I wear most of the time I bought in Zermatt Switzerland. I won't say that I think of Zermatt every time I check my watch but probably once every day or so I'm reminded of the great hiking holiday in the Alps. Of course, as luck would have it, I later found Richard's watch in the van.

On Richard's bucket list was having poutine in Quebec City. We went to a rather upscale restaurant and he had poutine. It was nothing like the poutine that comes in a package or the kind you get at MacDonald's. Still, I wouldn't put it near the top of my list of favourite foods. I don't remember what I had but it wasn't poutine.

With the Hurricane Arthur making its way north, we decided to go around the Gaspe Peninsula and stay out of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia where the worst of the storm was supposed to hit. We'd do our sightseeing on the way to Newfoundland rather than on the way back and if we didn't make it to Newfoundland this trip we'd just have to plan another. We started to follow the lighthouse route and our first lighthouse was at Pointe-au-Pere. We got a tour, in French, saw a video, in English, and got to go through the Canadian submarine the Onondaga. Both of us really enjoyed that stop.


We kept our eyes on the weather forecast and decided to head to Matane which was supposed to have a municipal campground. It did and it was a lovely one. We planned to stay one night and then move on but by that time the trailing edge of the storm was making itself felt and we decided to stay for two nights. With the help of Google Translate, Richard managed to secure a second night for us and we hunkered down in the wind and the rain. It was chilly enough that we even turned on the furnace at one point. We saw one tree with a broken limb as a result of the storm but we were warm and dry and our shelter stood up just fine in the wind. Because power was out in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and parts of Prince Edward Island we took our time in Quebec until the power was back on in most places. We spent two days in Forillon National Park. It was kind of exciting to buy a national park pass somewhere other than Banff.

There were a number of hikes that we could have done but we chose to hike up Mont Saint Alban which gave us gorgeous views along the coast in both directions. On our way down we came across a mama and a baby porcupine. We waited for them to get off the trail. Mama obliged and lumbered off into the bush. Baby had other ideas and headed down the trail in the opposite direction. We waited for a bit and then crossed the trail in between them. Mama did not come rushing out of the bush and Baby seemed content to chew on the foliage.




After 2 nights in Forillon we carried on and stopped for lunch in Perce. It was a challenge getting a parking spot but we managed and had lunch in a little restaurant overlooking the ocean. We debated about whether to stay and take the boat out to the bird sanctuary but the weather forecast was for rain the next day and we decided we didn't want to spend another day waiting it out. We reasoned if it was raining we might as well be using the time to get closer to Newfoundland. Perce Rock and the gannet colony went onto our bucket list for another trip.

The next national park we hit was Kouchibouguac. I practiced a lot to spell that and to say it. I think it was one of my favourite places on the trip, although it was really hot and humid and I had a serious case of the grumpies because of the heat. There are lots of trails that to hike or cycle. The second day we rented bikes and rode 23 km on the trails, not a hugely long ride but these bikes were... interesting. They had one speed with coaster brakes and we had to ask the rental guy for helmets. It took me a while to stop grabbing for the non-existent brakes with my hands. We got quite a workout and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly.

From Kouchibouguac we drove to PEI. We weren't sure we'd get to PEI either but, once again, we lucked out. We phoned from the Nova Scotia visitor's centre to book passage on the ferry to Port Aux Basques in Newfoundland. We couldn't get on for a couple of days so we decided to contact John and Kris on PEI to see if we could arrange to meet. John is very quick replying to emails and within a short time we were heading back so we could take the Confederation Bridge over to the island.

It's an advantage driving a rather large high vehicle over the bridge because we could see over the concrete barriers on either side. In a car we would have only seen the road. When we left the island we chose to take the ferry rather than the bridge because it was shorter and because the day we left was windy and Flopsy's steering is not the most responsive on the planet. In that situation a large high vehicle was not an advantage.

We had a marvellous time with John and Kris who wined us and dined us. We caught up on the intervening years, had great conversations and met their two dogs. Our time on PEI was one of the highlights of the trip.

After taking the ferry to Nova Scotia we camped about 20 minutes away from the Newfoundland ferry. Getting to Newfoundland would take 6 hours. We needed to be at the ferry at 9:30 a.m. The ferry didn't leave until 11:30 but it really did take all that time to get all the vehicles loaded. Having secured a space in the campground, we drove into North Sydney to have a lobster dinner at a restaurant recommended to us by the person at the campground. When we got there it was closed. We settled for pizza and never did get our lobster dinner. That's one more thing for the next time.

When we got up in the morning it was drizzling and chilly. The drizzle turned to rain once we left the port and we were glad we brought our fleece sweaters out of the van with us. We found a spot on one of the decks right by the windows that looked out the bow of the ship. We had lunch on board in a rather unusual restaurant. We lined up to order and pay for our meal, then obtained a number to put on the table. When the meal was ready one of the crew brought it to our table, sort of like a cafeteria where someone else goes through the line for you.

When we finished lunch we listened to books, wandered around the ship, checked out the gift shop and took photos of the rain and the sea. When we arrived in Port Aux Basques it was raining and grey and altogether desolate looking; nevertheless I couldn't wait to see what Newfoundland had in store for us.



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